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A do-it-yourselfers’ first instinct when waterproofing a basement is always to try and stop or plug water from seeping into your basement. Waterproofing paints and sealers seem like a very affordable and simple remedy to a wet basement, but have some serious downfalls.

Waterproofing paints and sealers never work long-term and only waste a homeowner’s money and time when trying to waterproof a basement. Over time the hydrostatic pressure will build up behind the paint causing it to bubble, crack and leak water, creating an even bigger headache to homeowners.

Instead of trying to stop or plug the water entering your basement, you want to allow water to enter your basement through a basement waterproofing system. This is what a professional waterproofing contractor would suggest.

Radon is a radioactive gas released from the normal decay of uranium in rocks and soil. It is an invisible, odorless, tasteless gas that seeps up through the ground and diffuses into the air.

Radon can enter homes through cracks in floors, walls, or foundations, and collect indoors. It can also be released from building materials, or from water obtained from wells that contain radon.

Radon levels can be higher in homes that are well insulated, tightly sealed, and/or built on uranium-rich soil. Because of their closeness to the ground, basement and first floors typically have the highest radon levels.

Can Radon Damage My Health?

Radon decays quickly, giving off tiny radioactive particles. When inhaled, these radioactive particles can damage the cells that line the lung. Long-term exposure to radon can lead to lung cancer, the only cancer proven to be associated with inhaling radon.

Scientists estimate that approximately 15,000 to 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year are related to radon.

How do I know If I Have Radon In My Home?

Testing is the only way to know if a person’s home has elevated radon levels. Indoor radon levels are affected by the soil composition under and around the house, and the ease with which radon enters the house. Homes that are next door to each other can have different indoor radon levels, making a neighbor’s test result a poor predictor of radon risk. Radon levels can vary month to month and day to day, therefore, long-term and short-term radon tests are recommended.

A state or local radon official can explain the differences between testing devices and recommend the most appropriate test for a person’s needs and conditions.

The cost of a radon reduction depends on the size and design of a home and the radon reduction methods that are needed. These costs typically range from $800 to $2,500, with an average cost of $1,200.

The following organizations can provide additional resources that readers may find helpful:

• The EPA Web site contains news, information, and publications on radon. It is located at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon on the Internet.
• The National Safety Council (NSC), in partnership with the EPA, operates a Radon Hotline.
• To reach an automated system for ordering materials and listen to informational recordings, call 1–800–SOS–RADON (1–800–767–7236).
• To contact an information specialist, dial 1–800–55–RADON (1–800–557–2366) or send an e-mail to airqual@nsc.org.
• More information about radon and its testing can be found on the NSC’s Web site at http://www.nsc.org/issues/radon/ on the Internet.
• The Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse (IAQ INFO) is operated by the EPA. To order publications or contact an information specialist, dial 1–800–438–4318. Alternatively, IAQ INFO can be reached by e-mail at iaqinfo@aol.com, by fax at 703–356–5386, or by mail at Post Office Box 37133, Washington, DC 20013–7133.
• The National Hispanic Indoor Air Quality Helpline is a service of the National Alliance for Hispanic Health, in partnership with the EPA. The Helpline provides bilingual (Spanish/English) information about indoor air pollutants. To speak with an information specialist, call 1–800–SALUD–12 (1–800–725–8312).

Sources: National Cancer Institute, Radon.com

After installing a baseboard-style basement waterproofing system, finishing your basement is the next and final step.

Never drive nails into the floor. Horizontal base plates of 2″x2″ should be attached to the wall just above the SquidGee Dry™ System. Use masonry nails. Vertical 2″x2″ should be attached to the wall in the same manner. Run all 2″x2″s from the top of the wall down to meet the horizontal base plate.

Next, install insulation. Bead board insulation is an ideal product for basement walls.

Now, its time to sheet rock from the top of the wall down to the lower edge of the horizontal base plate. There should be a clear space under the new walls preventing water damage to the sheet rock.

Millwork is now attached to the walls with finishing nails that are driven into the horizontal base plate. Carpet can now be installed with two face tape. (DO NO NAIL TACK STRIPES TO THE FLOOR)

Furnish! You have now created a dry, clean, and comfortable living space out of a once dark and damp basement.

Water Stains

• Water stains are the first clue to a wet, leaky basement. These stains could be along the walls or floor. These water stains could be a caused by something simple like overflowing laundry tub or you could a basement waterproofing problem as a result of water seeping in through the joint where the floor and walls meet.
• A musty, damp smell: Excess moisture in a basement creates a musty smell. Learn how to rid your basement of that smell.
• Mold: It could be colored black, brown, yellow or green. You should get it tested to know for sure if it is mold. Find a local mold certified specialist to assess your problem basement. Often the northwest corner of a house is known as a “cold corner” and susceptible to developing mold.
  

  Efflorescence

• Efflorescence: This condition produces a white or sometimes grayish ash on the walls. Sometimes it sparkles. Efflorescence is caused by salt deposits left behind by evaporating water.
• Spalling: When water gets inside the surface of concrete, brick or stone, salt deposits from the water cause the surface to flake away, peel or pop off.

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Check out my YouTube channel MrBasementWaterproof for the other 13 steps to waterproofing your wet, leaky basement.

If ventilation does not remove odors:

1. Mop concrete floor and walls with a bleach solution (3/4 cups of household bleach to a gallon of water).
2. Rinse and dry after 5 minutes.
3. Open windows when applying the bleach solution.

Place a lump of dry charcoal in an open tin/metal container to absorb odors.

These simple steps can help reduce moisture levels and slow the process of mold & mildew growth.

What is a sump pump?

A pump used to remove water that has accumulated in a pit commonly found in the home basement to collect water called a sump pit.

Does my basement need a sump pump?

Because it’s out of sight, many homeowners often forget about their sump pumps until it’s too late and they’re standing knee-deep in water. The sump pump is a crucial line of defense against water seepage and basement flooding.

If you are located in an area often affected by power outages, especially during severe thunderstorms, a battery-powered backup sump pump may be a good idea. A battery-powered backup sump pump will kick on if the primary pump shuts down or fails due to overuse, excessive water or flooding and power failures. When power is restored to your home the backup pump will turn off and the primary pump will begin again. Some models automatically recharge themselves.

A backup pump will usually cost extra money and may need a larger pit; they are typically worth it, especially if you meet the criteria above. Installing a sump pump with your basement waterproofing system is a necessary precaution against water damage. A sump pump in your basement can be considered an insurance plan for your valuables and home.

Another safeguard suggested by the bureau is a sump pump alarm. It’s designed to detect sump water levels before flooding occurs and emits a high-decibel alarm before the water can reach your basement floor. This can tip you off that the pump isn’t working properly. Alarms can be either electrical or battery-operated.

What maintenance does a sump pump need?

Checking out the sump pump every year as part of your regular spring-cleaning routine. Working around water and electricity can be dangerous is you don’t take the appropriate steps. Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Information Bureau, an industry group, has a checklist to use when maintaining your sump pump.

1. Clean out any debris, garbage or buildup that may have worked is way into the sump pump since the last time the pump was used.
2. Connect a garden hose to the laundry tub sink, fill the sump pit with water, and see if the pump kicks on.
3. If it doesn’t, you may need to replace the switch. But first make sure the pump is plugged in or that a fuse hasn’t blown.
4. While pumps don’t have filters, they do have screens or small openings where the water flows in. Make sure this area is not plugged or clogged.

If you have any other questions about sump pumps just send me an email and I will gladly help you out!

Email: info@waterproof.com

Subject: Blog