What is Radon? Is it bad for my health and home?

Posted: November 12, 2009 | Author: | Filed under: Choosing the Right System, DIY Basement Waterproofing, Exterior Waterproofing, Finishing Basement, Radon Gas | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

How radon enters home basement waterproofingWhat is Radon?

Radon is a radioactive gas released from the normal decay of uranium in rocks and soil. It is an invisible, odorless, tasteless gas that seeps up through the ground and diffuses into the air.

Radon can enter homes through cracks in floors, walls, or foundations, and collect indoors. It can also be released from building materials, or from water obtained from wells that contain radon.

Radon levels can be higher in homes that are well insulated, tightly sealed, and/or built on uranium-rich soil. Because of their closeness to the ground, basement and first floors typically have the highest radon levels.

200173670-001, Garry Hunter /Photographer's ChoiceCan Radon Damage My Health?

Radon decays quickly, giving off tiny radioactive particles. When inhaled, these radioactive particles can damage the cells that line the lung. Long-term exposure to radon can lead to lung cancer, the only cancer proven to be associated with inhaling radon.

Scientists estimate that approximately 15,000 to 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year are related to radon.

How do I know If I Have Radon In My Home?

Testing is the only way to know if a person’s home has elevated radon levels. Indoor radon levels are affected by the soil composition under and around the house, and the ease with which radon enters the house. Homes that are next door to each other can have different indoor radon levels, making a neighbor’s test result a poor predictor of radon risk. Radon levels can vary month to month and day to day, therefore, long-term and short-term radon tests are recommended.

A state or local radon official can explain the differences between testing devices and recommend the most appropriate test for a person’s needs and conditions.

The cost of a radon reduction depends on the size and design of a home and the radon reduction methods that are needed. These costs typically range from $800 to $2,500, with an average cost of $1,200.

Radon Test Kit Basement Waterproofing

The following organizations can provide additional resources that readers may find helpful:

  • The EPA Web site contains news, information, and publications on radon. It is located at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon on the Internet.
  • The National Safety Council (NSC), in partnership with the EPA, operates a Radon Hotline.
  • To reach an automated system for ordering materials and listen to informational recordings, call 1–800–SOS–RADON (1–800–767–7236).
  • To contact an information specialist, dial 1–800–55–RADON (1–800–557–2366) or send an e-mail to airqual@nsc.org.
  • More information about radon and its testing can be found on the NSC’s Web site at http://www.nsc.org/issues/radon/ on the Internet.
  • The Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse (IAQ INFO) is operated by the EPA. To order publications or contact an information specialist, dial 1–800–438–4318. Alternatively, IAQ INFO can be reached by e-mail at iaqinfo@aol.com, by fax at 703–356–5386, or by mail at Post Office Box 37133, Washington, DC 20013–7133.
  • The National Hispanic Indoor Air Quality Helpline is a service of the National Alliance for Hispanic Health, in partnership with the EPA. The Helpline provides bilingual (Spanish/English) information about indoor air pollutants. To speak with an information specialist, call 1–800–SALUD–12 (1–800–725–8312).

Sources: National Cancer Institute, Radon.com

Increase Your Living Space & Add Value to Your Home

Posted: November 12, 2009 | Author: | Filed under: Finishing Basement | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

When creating usable living space, the basement often becomes the most inexpensive approach to converting comfortable living space. Today, more and more old damp musty basements are being converted into dry usable space.

After installing a baseboard-style basement waterproofing system, finishing your basement is the next and final step.

Install step 2Never drive nails into the floor. Horizontal base plates of 2″x2″ should be attached to the wall just above the SquidGee Dry™ System. Use masonry nails. Vertical 2″x2″ should be attached to the wall in the same manner. Run all 2″x2″s from the top of the wall down to meet the horizontal base plate.

 

 

Install step 3Next, install insulation. Bead board insulation is an ideal product for basement walls.

 

 

 

 

Install step 4 Now, its time to sheet rock from the top of the wall down to the lower edge of the horizontal base plate. There should be a clear space under the new walls preventing water damage to the sheet rock.

 

 

 

Install step 5 Millwork is now attached to the walls with finishing nails that are driven into the horizontal base plate. Carpet can now be installed with two face tape. (DO NO NAIL TACK STRIPES TO THE FLOOR)

Furnish! You have now created a dry, clean, and comfortable living space out of a once dark and damp basement.


Video on How to Hire a Contractor

Posted: September 9, 2009 | Author: | Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Tips for Hiring Professional Waterproofing Contractors

Posted: August 31, 2009 | Author: | Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

After selecting a contractor to do the work, ask for a written contract in accordance with the estimate. Read this contract carefully before you sign it. Make sure you understand its contents. If you have a question, ask an attorney to review the contract for you.

The contract should include the following:

1. The contractor’s name, address, telephone number.

2.A full description of the work to be done and a list of the materials to be used.

3.A definite date on which work will start and the length of time for completion.

4.A provision that no change in plans or specifications may be made without the homeowner’s written approval.

5.A requirement that the contractor will obtain any necessary permits or licenses to assure the homeowner that building codes will not be violated.

6. Details of payment — the down payment, monthly payments, number of payments, the total finance costs, and annual percentage rate. The annual percentage rate is your key to comparing costs for the lowest rate.

7.A statement that the contractor is responsible for insuring his employees against possible injury on the job.

8.A warranty or guarantee with all conditions spelled out. For example, if what the contractor provides doesn’t solve the water problem, what is the company obligated to do and what are the alternatives?

9. The contractor’s signature and local or state licensing number, if licensing is required.

If you plan to finance the work and the contract terms could give the contractor a lien, mortgage on other security interest on your home, or if you are solicited by a door-to-door salesperson, make sure the contract contains a provision allowing you to cancel within three business days after signing it without penalty.

When signing the contract, make sure that all blanks are filled in, and that it contains everything the contractor promised. Do not rely on oral guarantees.

Make sure you have a copy of the written contract, signed by both parties, should you have trouble with the contractor later.

If and when the contractor requests your signature on a completion certificate, inspect the job carefully to see that the work has been done satisfactory, before signing.

Even if the job is finished, do not sign the completion certificate if you have a valid complaint about the work. It is not unreasonable, for basement waterproofing work, to delay signing until after heavy rains have come, or a specified period of time has elapsed.